Hommes
Shirt Collars
Since the collar essentially frames the face, it is important to select a collar which works best for your physical proportions. The details to consider are the spread, that is the distance between the points of the collar which can be narrow, medium or wide and the points length which can be short, average or long.
Shirt Collars :
Point
Standard for business, this versatile style works well with a jacket and tie or opened up for after work cocktails. The crisply pressed points come in varying length and offer a dressier option than a button-down. Plus, the longer points slim the face and frame your tie’s knot.
Spread
This British classic has an unequivocal air of elegance. If you’re going to sport this look, you better be prepared to tie a big knot.
Button-down
This distinctly American look rose to prominence in the Ivy League during the 1920s. Which may explain its rakish devil-may-care attitude when worn casually. Dress it up with a knit tie or wear it open and roll up the sleeves.FYI: The detachable collar was apparently invented by a housewife in the early 1800s that grew tired of washing so many of her husband’s shirts.
Tab
Designed to fit higher on the neck, the tab pulls the collar points down while lifting the knot of your tie closer to the chin. Buttoned up, it’s a tad formal and sophisticated. Unbuttoned, it’s dashing and nostalgic.
Banker’s
Originally, this formal white collar was detachable from the shirt, usually in a different colored fabric. The contrast made for a stylistic flourish, and it has enjoyed a recent surge in popularity. Of course, the shirt now comes in one piece.
Club
This narrow collar has a slightly rounded edge and became very popular in the first few decades of the 20th Century. It too, has been reintroduced by labels as Ralph Lauren.
| Face Shape | Acceptable | Avoid |
|
Rectangular-Square Jaw |
Average to slightly short collar Average to slightly wide spread Standard collar Button-down Tab collar Pin collar
|
Long points |
|
Square |
Standard collar Average to slightly long collar Average to slightly narrow spread Tab collar Pin collar Button-down
|
Wide and short collars |
|
Inverted triangle or diamond |
Standard collar Slightly short collar Average to slightly spread collar
|
Long points Pin collar Button-down
|
|
Oval or oblong |
Standard collar Slightly wide spread Short length Button-down
|
Long points Round collar
|
|
Round, wide spread |
Slightly short collars Button-down |
Round collars Narrow spreads Long points
|
|
Face Shape |
Acceptable |
Avoid |
|
Rectangular-Square Jaw |
· Average to slightly short collar · Average to slightly wide spread · Standard collar · Button-down · Tab collar · Pin collar
|
Long points |
|
Square |
· Standard collar · Average to slightly long collar · Average to slightly narrow spread · Tab collar · Pin collar · Button-down
|
Wide and short collars |
|
Inverted triangle or Diamond |
· Standard collar · Slightly short collar · Average to slightly spread collar
|
Long points Pin collar Button-down
|
|
Oval or oblong |
· Standard collar · Slightly wide spread · Short length · Button-down
|
Long points Round collar
|
|
Round, wide spread |
Slightly short collars Button-down |
Round collars Narrow spreads Long points |
